A Cruise on the S.S. Lurline - 1935

If we could spend 5 days in 1935, and there was no possibility of staving off the Depression or averting World War II, we would probably spend them cruising from San Francisco to Honolulu on board the Matson liner S.S. Lurline.

Matson’s beautiful white liner was the third ship of its fleet to be named Lurline. Her maiden voyage took place on January 12, 1933. She joined her sister ships S.S. Malolo, S.S. Mariposa, and S.S. Monterey. It was pure luxury all the way - most of Lurline’s staterooms were first class, and there were games (such as potato sack races and musical chairs – for adults), sports, swimming (Lurline had 2 pools), cocktails, dinners, and dancing designed to amuse.


Arriving in our stateroom (”Lovely!”), stewards would be rushing in and out, delivering telegrams and floral arrangements. We’d quickly scan the passenger lists to see if anyone we knew was sailing, or a movie star – maybe Bette Davis, or Ginger Rogers – then dash to secure deck chairs for best choice of location. Finally, it’s Bon Voyage!



The horse race game was played aboard Lurline. With real betting, such games were popular on transatlantic ships as well.

In the evening, there would be the Captain’s Champagne Party, with a sing-along. Evening meals were elegant, topped by the festive Aloha Dinner. After dinner, meeting friends for cocktails and dancing in the Verandah Café.

We might try a Matson Cocktail:

1/3 shot kümmel
½ shot cognac
1 sugar cube
Chilled champagne
Piece of lemon peel
Chilled 6-oz martini glass.

Pour kümmel and cognac over crushed ice in a shaker and shake gently. Place the sugar cube in the glass. Strain kümmel and cognac into glass. Add champagne to fill. Float lemon peel over the top. Sip slowly and stay far away from the ship’s rail.


Or maybe we'll just retire to a chaise lounge on our balcony and gaze romantically out to sea and trying out our "Wallis Simpson" look.

Matson ad, June 1934. Matson provided its passengers with suggestions for what to wear: "Clothing of linen, white drill, pongees, or ‘Palm Beach’ are popular all seasons with visitors to Hawai’i and the South Seas. Ordinary light-weight clothing of the mainland will be found entirely satisfactory for visitors to Hawai’i. Warm wraps should be taken for the higher altitudes…A raincoat will be found useful” (quoted in To Honolulu in Five Days: Cruising Aboard Matson’s S.S. Lurline by Lynn Blocker Krantz and Mary Thiele Fobian.

Arrival in Honolulu was exciting. On “boat day” practically the whole city came to meet and greet the arriving Lurline passengers. We’d be dazzled by the colorful leis, handmade on the shore by Native Hawaiian women. Beautiful! Souvenir photo taken at Luke Photo Studio, 1240 Nuuanu St., Honolulu , 1930s


From the ship, Matson’s crew would whisk us and our bags over to the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, the “pink palace” built by Matson at Waikiki Beach in 1927. Here, amidst gorgeous grounds, we’d be able to dance on the beach or at the neighboring Moana Hotel, and listen to Harry Owens’ Royal Hawaiian Band – familiar to mainlanders due to their popular radio broadcasts.

We could learn to hula (or just watch the experts in action), or learn to surf – like tobacco heiress Doris Duke did when she was here with husband James Cromwell on their 1935 honeymoon. Or we might go horseback riding, tour the Dole pineapple plantation, or take a motor tour around the island. Oh dear - our time in 1935 is up way too soon!




Cruising to Hawaii in the movies:
William Powell and Kay Francis in One Way Passage (1932) –remade in 1940 with George Brent and Merle Oberon as ‘Til We Meet Again.

Below: Bing Crosby and Martha Raye in Waikiki Wedding (1937).

The Royal Hawaiian Hotel and the Moana Hotel (now the Moana Surfrider), though dwarfed by modern highrises, are still the queens of Waikiki Beach. Doris Duke enjoyed her visit so much, she decided to build a home there. Her Shangri-la (built in 1937) is now open to the public (www.shangrilahawaii.org/).