Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Oh, Pashley!

We’ve been swooning over the Pashley Sovereign Princess ever since gorgeous Fleur de Guerr wrote about them in this post of her blog, Diary of a Vintage Girl, last summer. Not realizing it at the time, this is also the bike we’d long admired in the pages of Victoria magazine in the 1990s. Until fairly recently, there weren’t any shops distributing them in the vicinity.
But one was finally located, and a Regency Green Pashley will be arriving here in August!! We can finally imagine we’re in St. Mary Mead, home of Miss Marple, or Tilling, the home of Miss Mapp, and later Emmeline “Lucia” Lucas, in E.F. Benson’s books - all time favorites around here. It’s in the last book of the series, Trouble for Lucia (1939) that Lucia starts a fad for bicycling:
"The bicycles arrived a week later, nickel-plated and belled and braked; Lucia had the borough arms of Tilling brilliantly painted on the tool bag behind her saddle. They were brought up to Mallards after dark; and next morning after breakfast the two rode about the garden paths, easily passing up the narrow path into the kitchen garden, making circles round the mulberry tree on the lawn (‘Here we go round the mulberry tree’ lightly-heartedly warbled Lucia) and proving themselves adepts. . . At the shopping hour they mounted and bumped slowly down the cobbles of the steep street into the High Street, ready to ring their bells.

This one appearance of Lucia and Georgie doing their shopping on bicycles had been enough to kindle the spark of admiration in the breast of the more mature ladies of Tilling. It looked so lissome, so gaily adolescent to weave your way in and out of traffic and go for a spin in the country, and surely if Lucia could, they could also.

It became fashionable to career up and down the High Street after dark, when traffic was diminished, and the whole length of it resounded with tinkling bells and twinkled with bicycle-lamps. . ."
“‘Now we can put on the pace a little Georgie,’ said Lucia and she shot ahead. All her practicings had been on the level roads of the marsh or on the sea-shore, and at once she was travelling much faster than she had intended, and with eyes glued on the curving road, she fumbled for her brake. She completely lost her head. All she could find in her agitation was her bell, and incessantly ringing, she sped with ever increasing velocity down the short steep road towards the bridge over the railway. A policeman on point duty stepped forward with the arresting arm of the law held out to stop her…”
(Above: "Miss Sally Emerson and Miss Jean Williams question Park Policeman Arthur Dolan as to why he arrested them 1933 Golden Gate Park" From the San Francisco Public Library historical photo collection.)

Cycling was popular for women in the 1930s for fitness and leisure. Attire for country or resort-area rides was casual - a pair of high-waist shorts or skirt and a blouse, with or without coordinated knee socks; or a sports dress. Culottes (also worn for golf and tennis) or divided skirts were practical for those that wanted freedom of movement but couldn’t – or wouldn’t – wear shorts. Shown below, a 2-piece bicycling costume of pink linen, 1935, consisting of divided skirt with a scarf for the waist and another for the collar, in turquoise stripes. The shirt has a long tail to keep it from pulling out. White calf bicycle shoes with leather heels that are quite flat.

For Town, a dress, perhaps of silk or linen, was a more likely ladies’ choice. Phoenix Hosiery, in this 1934 ad, emphasized the durability and stretching capacity of their product, with the ladylike cyclist in mind.

Color image above: from the Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour website, http://www.3speedtour.com/. A divine-sounding tour around Lake Pepin, Minnesota, 1930s style. Top image, Coca-Cola ad, 1934.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

From Vogue November 1939

We don’t pay much attention to modern magazines typically. But in line at the market yesterday, our eyes were drawn to the cover of the July 2010 Vanity Fair, which features a stunning color photo of Elizabeth Taylor in a white bathing suit, c.1960s. Flipping through the issue (which has a long article on Elizabeth – the Richard Burton years), another photo caught our eye – that above, of the “Twilight- Eclipse girls” by Norman Jean Roy. We instantly recognized it as a tribute to the November 1, 1939 cover of Vogue. Not bad!

Clockwise from top left: Eclipse’s Ashley Greene, Bryce Dallas Howard, and Dakota Fanning. See it and more images, here.

Condé Nast began publishing Vanity Fair in 1913 (originally called Dress and Vanity Fair). It ceased publication in 1935 and merged with Nast’s bi-monthly Vogue in 1936. The current Vanity Fair started up in 1983.

Horst shot this photo for Vogue (Makeup by Elizabeth Arden, jewels by Marcus). November 1, 1939.

“Pin-up” artist Alberto Vargas was also apparently inspired by Horst’s photo when he designed this face powder box for Jergens in the 1940s (note same fringed shawl backdrop). Image is from the lovely Vintage Powder Room, http://vintagepowderroom.com/?tag=home-front.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Beach & Poolside Fashions - 1935

With summer officially here, we thought we'd start by sharing some images of casual beach and pool fashions, all from 1935. The above image was "taken aboard the Lurline" en route to Hawaii.
"For sheer swank afloat or ashore," halters and jersey pajama pants were popular...


Writer Nancy Hale shown in her “special outfit for summer travel on the seas” - white gabardine shorts and a halter made from Woolworth’s sportier red cotton handkerchiefs.

Pool beauties. Plaid suit in the top image is similar to #1, the "dressmaker suit" below.


Don't forget the Sun-Pruf cream!

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

New Mildred Pierce

Are we the last people in the country to hear about the new Mildred Pierce made-for-tv movie with Kate Winslet? We found out about it by accident: while researching something totally different, came across a picture of Miss Winslet in a cute, decidedly ‘30s frock (above) and did a double take! It’s still being filmed now, and slated to air on HBO later this year as a mini-series.


While it’s based on the same source material as the classic 1945 film starring Joan Crawford, it does not appear that the current project could accurately be described as a “remake” of that film. James M. Cain’s grim and rather sordid 1941 novel is set in the 1930s-early '40s and is as much a story of the Depression as anything else. Nothing really dramatic happens.

The film noir aspects of Mildred Pierce were added by Hollywood. This was Crawford’s first film for Warner’s, having been forced to leave Metro, and she won an Oscar If adhering more closely to the original book as they apparently are, the new tv-Mildred will probably remind us more of the 1934 film Imitation of Life with Claudette Colbert and Louise Beavers than Mildred. We will have to wait and see. It looks like they’re doing a good job with the sets and clothing, anyway.


Hey, the front of that Model A looks very familiar...

More costumes from the film



James M. Cain's story spans a number of years, from pre-Repeal days into the late '30s-early '40s

Top: extras hamming it up on the set? Lower: Evan Rachel Wood, whom we admit we've never heard of before, plays Veda, the eldest Pierce daughter (fated to get slapped no matter which source material they're using).

One last note: In doing "research" for this post, we saw Joan Crawford being derided repeatedly for her supposed “middle aged” appearance in Mildred Pierce. We wish we could direct their attention to this still, from the beach house scene: underneath those shoulder pads, Joan retained an enviable trim dancer’s figure. Picture, and many more, from our favorite site for all things Joan, The Best of Everything: A Joan Crawford Encyclopedia.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Aviatrix Style in Life and Fiction

In the 1920s and ‘30s, women aviatrixes made headlines and were greatly admired – for their pioneering efforts in a field that was still new, even for men; for their bravery and dare-devilry; and for their dash and style. These ladies were so glamorous, there was not much even Hollywood could do to improve on them. We only mention a few; there were many others. A reading list follows.

Below: Amelia with her trademark pearls

Hillary Swank plays Miss Earhart in the 2009 movie Amelia.


Amy Johnson, above, flew solo from England to Austrailia in 1930. Her insouciance and remarks to the press about having to powder her nose mid-flight, and the fact that she always flew with a tennis racket and an evening gown, endeared her to the Mayfair smart set. She and her playboy husband, Jim Mollison, were known as “The Flying Sweathearts” (until they divorced). Her plane went down (over the Thames Estuary) in 1941, and her body was never found.

Florence Lowe “Pancho” Barnes, who grew up a privileged child in Pasadena, California, began training horses and flying stunt planes for Hollywood in the 1920s (she worked with Howard Hughes on Hell’s Angels). She operated a notorious nightclub in the Mojave Desert, The Happy Bottom Riding Club.

Pancho Barnes (left) and Amelia Earhart (center) along with other ladies of aviation. Image: U.S. Cenntennial of Flight Commmission.

Elizabeth "Bessie" Coleman, from the segregated American south, had to overcome racial as well as gender barriers to become a flyer. Nicknamed “Queen Bess” and “Brave Bess,” she earned her pilot’s license in France in 1921, a time when it was still considered daring just to ride in a plane, much less fly one. She thrilled crowds when performing at “barnstormer” air show events. Tragically, she was killed preparing for one in 1926. Image below: L.A. Public Library Digital Photo Collection.

The Flying Ace (1926) features actress Kathryn Boyd as a "female daredevil" pilot. The character is based on Coleman. This rarity will be screened at the San Francisco Silent Film Festival, July 17, 2010.

From Indiana University’s Black Film Center Archives:

"The Flying Ace, released in 1926, starred Lawrence Criner and Kathryn Boyd, two established Black actors. Criner played a World War I fighter pilot who returns home a hero. Peg Reynolds was Criner's side kick and together they rescue Boyd and her father from railroad thieves. The film played off the headlines of "colored aviators" including Bessie Coleman who wanted Norman to make a picture about her stunt flying exploits. Unfortunately she was killed in a plane crash before Norman released The Flying Ace. Ace boasted death defying feats in "the greatest airplane thriller ever filmed, but in reality, Norman shot all the airplane scenes with the plane on the ground. Even so, the film was a sensation and grossed close to $20,000 through Norman's distribution efforts."


Above and below: the beautiful Beryl Markham. Raised in East Africa, she became an bush pilot, and in September 1936 was the first person to fly solo across the Atlantic from east to west. In addition to her flying, she is famous for her affair with Denys Fitch Hatton.

Dust jacket art for Wings of Love, the Love Story of a Girl Aviator (1934).

Above: Myrna Loy as an aviatrix in Wings in the Dark (1935) with Cary Grant, now on DVD. Below, Myrna's pants from the movie, below were up for auction .


Will the real aviatrix please stand up? (or sit down?): Myrna, Cary, and Amelia Earhart, probably around the time of Wings in the Dark. Image from the Happy Thoughts Darling film blog.

Above: Breaking cultural and gender barriers was Katherine Sui Fun Cheung, the first Chinese-American woman to be a licenced pilot (1932), who was inevitably called "The Chinese Amelia Earhart."

Below, Lee Ya-Ching, "China's First Lady of the Air" in 1939, the year she played herself (more or less) in Frank Borzage's film Disputed Passage. The gorgeous aviatrix was a natural for Hollywood, having been a silent film star in China already, but she was actually in the U.S.A. on a mission of mercy - seeking assistance for Chinese refugees.



Jacqueline "Jackie" Cochran, a contemporary of Amelia Earhart. The subtitle of her autobiography, Jackie Cochran: the Autobiography of the Greatest Woman Pilot in Aviation History gives you an idea of her ego (recent publications have shortened it to simply "An Autobiography'), but it is not without basis: she set women's speed records and established (and commanded) the Women's Airforce Service Pilots during World War II. She also created a cosmetics company with the motto "Wings to Beauty."


Kay Francis (above with Sheila Bromley) as an aviatrix competing in a women's air derby in Women in the Wind (1939), her last picture for Warner's. Image from the Kay Francis blog. Kay does a fine job with the material she's given. Cast member Eve Arden mentions this film in her autobiography, referring to a scene in which her plane nosedives and goes down in flames. When the camera cuts to a close up of Eve being carried off the field, her makeup is perfect, not a hair out of place. "The audience howled,' she remembers. The film was based on a book by Francis Walton. "Powder Puff Derbies" were very popular.


Real-life champion air racer Louise Thaden. From the website Breaking Through the Clouds - visit them to see more photos and information about the first women's national air race.


Above: Anne Morrow Lindbergh. Though overshadowed as Wife of Charles, Anne (born Anne Spencer Morrow) was an aviatrix in her own right, as well as the author of several non-fiction books and novels. Her North to the Orient, for example (1935) is an account of the couple's flight to the Orient in 1931, for which she served as co-pilot and navigtor.


If you can't do a floor show, do an air show! Ladies on the wing in Flying Down to Rio (1933).


Phryne Fisher, she of the Dutch-doll bob in Kerry Greenwood's Phryne Fisher mystery series (set in 1928), shows off her flying skills in the series' second installment, Flying Too High (2007 edition).

Katherine Hepburn plays a famous aviatrix in Christopher Strong (1933), based on the novel by Gilbert Frankau. The slender Hepburn looked great in her flying clothes, but her most memorable costume from this film (from any film) is the infamous silver moth get-up. In real life, Miss Hepburn learned how to fly from one of the best: her beau, aviator Howard Hughes.

Flora (Kate Beckinsale) gets set to go flying in Cold Comfort Farm (1995). Stella Gibbons’ 1932 novel is set in the “near future” when, apparently, planes would be as common as automobiles.


For Further Reading, a selected bibliography:

Amelia Earhart:

The Sound of Wings: The Life of Amelia Earhart by Mary S. Lovell.

The Fun of It: Random Records of My Own Flying and of Women in Aviation. By Amelia Earhart.

East to the Dawn: The Life of Amelia Earhart by Susan Butler.


Amy Johnson:

Amy Johnson by Constance Babington Smith

Amy Johnson, Queen of the Air by Midge Gillies.

Sky Roads of the World: Amy Johnson’s Story About Her Adventurous Flying Career by Amy Johnson.


Anne Morrow Lindbergh:

Anne Morrow Lindbergh: Her Life by Susan Hertog.


Beryl Markham:

West with the Night by Beryl Markham

Straight on Till Morning: A Biography of Beryl Markham by Mary S. Lovell.


Bessie Coleman:

Queen Bess: Daredevil Aviator by Doris L. Rich.


Jacqueline Cochran:

Jackie Cochran: An Autobiography by Jacqueline Cochran, with Maryann Bucknum Brinley.

Jackie Cochran: Pilot in the Fast Lane by Doris L. Rich.

Jacqueline Cochran: First Lady of Flight by Marquita O. Fisher.


Lee Ya-Ching and Katherine Sui Fun Cheung:

Sisters of Heaven: China’s Barnstorming Aviatrixes: Modernity, Feminism and Popular Imagination in Asia and the West by Patti Gully.


Louise Thaden:

High, Wide and Frightened by Louise M. Thaden.


Pancho Barnes

The Happy Bottom Riding Club: The Life and Times of Pancho Barnes by Lauren Kessler.


General:

Power Puff Derby: Petticoat Pilots and Flying Flappers by Mike Walker.

The Powder Puff Derby of 1929: The True Story of the First Women’s Cross Country Air Race by Gene Nora Jesson.

Before Amelia: Women Pilots in the Early Days of Aviation by Eileen F. Lebow.